Fiona’s Tips: Getting to Know Stretch Fabrics
By FunkiFabrics, 17 July 2025
Posted in Fiona's Tips
Welcome to the first edition of Fiona’s Tips your new go-to blog series where I share practical advice, sewing insights, and fabric favourites. Whether you’re an experienced dressmaker or just beginning your stretch fabric journey, I hope this series inspires confidence and creativity.
Let’s kick things off with a subject close to my heart: Lycra and stretch fabrics.
Why I Love Lycra
As someone who designs and makes ice skating dresses, I can honestly say: Lycra is addictive! Lycra also known as Spandex in North America is the trade name for a synthetic fibre developed by DuPont in the 1950s. It was designed to replace rubber and has since become a staple in everything from swimwear and sportswear to stage costumes and, of course, skating dresses. What makes Lycra so special? It can stretch up to six times its length and snap right back into shape. This resilience makes it ideal for performance wear where both comfort and flexibility are key.
Choosing the Right Stretch Fabric
The tricky part of working with stretch fabric is knowing what to choose. With thousands of options available, the difference between a dream dress and a sewing disaster often comes down to the quality of the fabric.
My top tip: buy the best fabric you can afford. High-quality Lycra is easier to sew, holds its shape, and keeps its colour. For the garments I make, I often use fabric with a high Lycra content (18–20%) to ensure great performance and durability.
Working with the same base fabric regularly helps you really understand its properties how it stretches, how it drapes, and how it behaves under the needle. I particularly love Italian Lycra for its smooth finish, rich colour, and beautiful drape it’s my absolute favourite, even if it’s a little pricey!
Explore the Possibilities
• Printed Lycra: There are thousands of ready-to-go designs and you can even customise your own change colours, scale, or add foil. The creative potential is endless.
• Stretch Velvet: Often overlooked in ice skating lately, but used sparingly, it adds luxury and texture. Just don’t overdo it it’s easy to tip into “homemade” territory if you're not careful.
• Stretch Mesh (Net): Ideal for sleeves, skirts, or linings. Choose a 4-way stretch net with high Lycra content Alicante net is my personal favourite for its strength and elegance.
• Top-coated Lycra: Shiny and structured, with a subtle “shot silk” look. It’s perfect for appliqué work and adds fantastic depth and detail.
What About Non-Stretch Fabrics?
While I mostly work with stretch, I occasionally use non-stretch fabrics like chiffon for skating skirts. These are light, floaty, and beautiful especially in silk but you’ll need to compensate for the lack of stretch by designing carefully. A deep V-shape at the waistline can help with fit and movement.
Final Thoughts
Working with Lycra and other stretch fabrics can feel daunting at first, but once you understand their behaviour, they become a joy to use. Stick with good quality fabrics, experiment boldly, and keep learning. That’s what this journey is all about. Until next time, happy sewing!
Fiona x
